She shot the Ruger 22/45 in the Rimfire category and beat some folks!  (9 folks to be exact!)

She’d only shot it previously at our range just a couple of times.

We’re proud of her.

I also shot my new ‘Precious’ G17 Open Gun in Unlimited.   It was it’s first outing.  I was a bit tentative.  The only rounds through it previously were the 80 or so I ran through it to get a load that would cycle it.

I wasn’t that far off the pace set by Jeff so I was pleased.

I followed that up with a DNF at the GSSF meet in Dayton.   (Don’t be like me, case check your ammo people).   I had a bad round that jammed up the gun good, real good.  Had I properly case checked them all I could have avoided that. I didn’t have the tools to unjam it at the match so I had to take a DNF.

Lesson learned.

I switched gears, did some horse trading, and got the rest of my package and now we have this:

Improvements include:

• LoneWolf Stainless Steel Match Barrel, locks up good-n-tight, threaded. (nabbed of ebay since LoneWolf was out of stock, good thing cause I saved a few bones).
• LoneWolf Compensator
• C-more STS 7MOA red dot.   I like it, but I also like my dots to look like dots and not ‘fish’.   I’m a little disappointed in the shape of this dot.  My TruGlo Red-Dot on the Ruger has a better defined Dot.
• A Lonewolf (new design) Skeletonized Steel Striker and 4lb spring to further sharpen the trigger.

So I swapped out the components, installed the barrel and comp, installed the sight, got all giddy, grabbed some ammo and headed to the range.

Bummer, the gun wouldn’t cycle.   I was skeptical when I bought the compensator because of the note on the product: “We highly recommend the use of LWD stainless guide rod and ISMI reduced power recoil springs with this product. Light loads or reduced power ammunition may not run reliably. “

Well pfft, I already have an 11lb ISMI spring, on a captured stainless guide rod. I looked and ISMI doesn’t seem to make a 10 but I’ve inquired.  I know my loads are a little light but they aren’t super-light.

So back to the house, crank out 20 or so loads more loads with .5 more grains and grab a box of factory ammo.  Back to the range.  (Sure is nice that the range is in my back yard).

Some success but still not enough success, not even the factory Federal Red-box ran to my satisfaction.   So I called up Jeff, and talked it over with him.

I verified that I am running an 11lb spring.  Cranked out another 25 rounds with nearly a grain more than my standard round that cycled the gun perfectly before. Back to the range to test.

I giggled inside.   This thing is awesome.  

Now next up is the slide lightening.  Actually it involves getting a new LoneWolf Slide, one that hopefully is cut to using their Skeleton pattern.

Though I’m trying to get a feel for just how much weight savings that is.  Hopefully the lonewolf guy can answer that.  I’d surely hate to spend the coin and end up with insignificant savings.  I am also considering just strategically swish cheezing my factory slide.  Holes, lots of holes.

There is still work to be done, but for now I should have ‘enough’ open gun to start making a couple guys sweat.   We’ll find out Saturday.  I wish I had more time to test, hope I don’t lay a big egg.

I shot the Ghetto bottom feeder Glock ‘open gun’ friday night.   Other than some dry fire practice it hadn’t been shot previously.  At this time the only thing that makes it open is the cmore.  Parts (Barrel, Compensator and other go fast parts) have been ordered but they have yet to arrive.

Stage 1, and Stage 2 went pretty well.   I was happy.   Then it happened on stage 3, a malfunction.   Tap-Rack and go.  I noticed I got a live round and an empty case. Hrm…

Then Saturday while shooting a bit at the range with a buddy I brought it out to show him.   He shot it and was kind of excited.  I shot it a couple time and again had a couple of issues.

Then Molly showed up and she wanted to shoot it so I sat back and watched.

Sadly she too had a couple malfunctions and it was clear, the cartridge were being ejected straight into the Cmore, even though it was offset quite a bit.

About 1 in 20 times it would bounce straight back down into the chamber area and jam things up.   I wasn’t happy with this mount to begin with but am not excited about a mount that requires me to alter the frame.   So if you have a good source for a mount that allows me to use this Cmore rotated 90 degrees and doesn’t require me to modify the frame let me know.

Otherwise the plan now is to go slide mount with a smaller optic.

More as this unfolds.

Unlike the local gigs around here where I’m able to shoot both my G19 and G34 in ‘stock auto’, cause, well they are basically stock (except for some trigger work).. In Palmyra I could only shoot one gun in each class.  

I elected to shoot the G19 in stock auto, and the (stock) G34 in Open Auto.   At every stage I’d whip that thing out and the RO would say “Hey wait, we have you down for Open Auto”.   And I’d tell them, no, that’s right, but I don’t have an open gun.

Anyway fast forward to the results.   I shot extremely poorly the first day with the G19.   Nothing wrong with the gun, I just laid an egg.   I was nervous, and had some mental break downs as well as fundamental break downs.

Friday I shot the G34 ‘respectable’  Not great but considering the previous days events, oh so much better.   Enough that I would have scored well in stock auto with that gun.   There is mucho room for improvement across the board.   But I can easily see, with some adjustments getting a Glock Race Gun in the top 25 in Open.

That’s right a ‘bottom feeder’ Glock Race gun.

I know what you’re thinking, this has been done, you should just go buy an STI or something.

Well I’d love to do that too, but I don’t have the funds.   I think I can build what I want out of parts I already have, with a few additions, and some bartering for under $400.     That’s the goal, heck I can probably do it for less than that even.  So here goes.

I’m starting with my G17, which was a GSSF won handgun so my cost there is literally the $25 FFL fee that I paid to get it to me.

Trigger work has already been done to my satisfaction. It comes in at around 2.8lbs. Let’s call that $40 in parts, plus a lot of polishing. That includes the connector, the trigger stop and some springs, some of which I already had.

I already had a C-More 6MOA red dot that I picked up last year, I just needed a mount.   $40 later via ebay and I have a nice external/frame mount.

This probably won’t be the be-all-end-all.   I think I really want a slide mounted small optic, but that would immediately blow the budget.   But I’m shopping on ebay and have some targets in mind.

With just those items we have a good start:

Yeah the mount, I don’t like it, but it’s a start.  I’m going to shoot this a few times and make some decisions.

Next up will be a barrel/comp combination.  Again, ebay and online auctions will be my source if possible.

Then slide lightening/milling.   I’m hopeful that will be low cost through one of my machinist friends.

I already have a plethora of Magazines (haha, thanks Jeff) which helps keep the costs down.   If I picked up another race gun I’d be faced with buying another bunch of mags for that one gun.  

I’ll post up more as this develops.  It could be a HUGE mistake, but then even if it is, it won’t cost me much to find that out as I’ll be able to re-use most of the parts.

More as this develops.

PSA Shootout 2012 Palmyra, PA.
http://www.psashootout.com/

Which is the largest Steel shoot in the nation (so we’re told) 600+ shooters, more steel than anywhere else.

Every stage had between 25 and 35 steel targets, with a par time of 90 seconds.   A LOT of people did not clear every stage.  Claudine did!

Crazy Rimfire Side-match goodness:

70 pieces of steel, two texas stars, 90 seconds to complete.   Some of the targets were like 1 inch wide by 3 inches tall on the small plates.   Best I could do was to leave (4) in 9 seconds.   It can be done though.

Claudine on Stage 1 (Yes she kicked my butt on this stage)

Claudine on Stage 2

Me: Stage 5 Day 2 with G34

More Vids on our Youtube Channel here:

http://www.youtube.com/user/madisher?feature=mhee

This theme, while not as pretty or sexy gets the job done.  It’s one of the default wordpress themes.  I am hopeful that it will not get molested as often and am also hopeful that the wordpress people will be on top of it when it does.

Sorry Tarski, but I can’t deal with this anymore.

-MD

Matthew was all about Santa.

Santa and Mrs. Clause read the children a book.  Something about trying to outsource labor and replace the elves.   They tried dragons, they tried polar bears and other workers but it just didn’t work out.

Not real sure what the moral of the story was.

We all sang Jingle Bells with Santa, then Matthew wanted to sing a song…

Of course his favorite Christmas song was “Bad Boys, Bad Boys, whatcah gonna do”

Everyone was there except for my slacker Canadian cousins

Peyton and Matthew learning about Santa’s magical keys.

And of course gifts.

All of the photos can be found here.

It started out practice and fun and only got more fun.

For now we’re shooing 9mm, because that was the most economical to shoot and the weapons we purchased (and prefer) happen to be in that caliber.

When we started, boxes of decent Federal 9mm was $8.49 (plus tax) a box of 50.  (18¢ each).

This spring that same box of ammo went up to $11.49 a box (plus tax) or 24¢ each.

If you go through 100 rounds on a typical night x 2 shooters, that starts adding up rather quickly.   It is amazing at just how fast you can go through 250 rounds in a practice session ($60).

Enter Reloading

Reloading does a couple of things.   At the base it allows you to assemble ammunition new and sometimes not so new parts .

1. Case, New or Used but cleaned and polished case.
2. Primer (new)
3. Powder (new)
4. Bullet (new)

It also allows you to tweak the load and tailor it to your needs or what your gun likes best.  

Is it safe?  Absolutely.  Provided you pay attention to what you’re doing.   The two undesirable things that you can do are:

1) Under-charge a load.

This is a ‘squib’.   Provided you’re paying attention when you’re shooting and catch it the worst thing that can happen is you get a bullet lodged in your barrel.   This in itself isn’t so bad, provided you notice and STOP.  If you attempt to shot another round with a bullet lodged in the barrel. Bad, potentially very bad things will happen.

For What It’s Worth:   I have had 2 squibs from production ammo in our short shooting span, so no, production ammo isn’t immune to this either.  Though neither of those left a bullet lodged in the barrel, they were clearly squibs (more of a pffft, and not a Bang!).

It happens…

2) Double Charge/Over Charge

This would be putting two much powder in the round.  It’s certainly possible, but it’s pretty easy to avoid if you watch what you’re doing.  You can add a powder checker to your reloader which will catch grossly over or under charges.

But if you’re careful and watchful, you’ll know where the powder level should be (give or take) when you place the bullet on the case.

The results of an over-charge or double charge can be disastrous as well.   You could blow up your gun in your hand.   So it’s best to avoid this.

Now that that is out of the way.   How much can you save?

First and foremost, save your brass.   I don’t care who you are or what you’re shooting, if you can save your brass do so.   Even if you don’t want to, save it and give it to me.   I started saving brass day one any time I shot at our range or anywhere that I could pick up brass.   That meant I was starting with 5,000 or so rounds of “once fired brass”.

Savings are less significant if you have to buy brass.

Bass Pro Shops had 100 new brass cases for $24.00, that’s simple math 24¢ each, and the same price as fully loaded ammunition.

Other sources for previously used brass:
(prices accurate at the time of writing)

http://www.oncefiredbrass.com/   250 @ $10.00 = 4¢ each

http://www.once-fired-brass.com/ 3500 @ $85.99 = 2.5¢ each

The latter is not too hateful.    The bottom line though is it helps to save it, pick it up when you can and/or know someone that has more than they will ever shoot and barter or trade with them.

So for the purposes of my calculations, my brass cost is 0¢ but you can add 2-4¢ if you need to buy it.    It’s still worthwhile if you have to buy brass, just not as spectacular.

The three other components you need are:

(Note:  I am not advocating or recommending any of these components. The purpose of this post is about reloading basics, not to debate the merits of each component.  It is not about which primer or powder is best.  I’m just telling you what I am currently using and it is subject to change based upon price/availability/whim.  You don’t have to use/like or agree with my choices.)

A Primer:  I choose Federal Small Pistol Primers #100.   They are $33.00 a box of 1000, often cheaper if you buy more say 5-10 boxes at a time.   But lets simply call it 3¢ each. 

Some Powder:  I’m currently using Bullseye. I have bought it for less than $20 for a 1lb canister.   1lb has 7000 grains (weight, not granules).   On average let’s say a load is 3.6grains   $20/ (7000/3.6 = 1944) = 1¢ per load.

Primers and Powders are best sourced locally.  To have them shipped usually involves a Hazmat fee that makes it more expensive.

A Bullet: Outside of the brass, this is the most expensive part.

If you’re shooting enough consider lead, cast lead.

No one’s ever worn out a barrel shooting lead (so I’ve been told).   It’s cheaper, but not cleaner.   Care must be taken to clean your weapons.  You should be doing this anyway.

Some claim you can’t shoot lead through a Glock stock barrel (or any polygonal barrel for that matter), but I’ve met plenty, and by plenty I mean a lot of people that do on a regular basis without issue.   Granted you MUST clean your barrels, and keep them from fouling that is the key.   If you are lazy or just don’t clean your guns, then don’t shoot lead.

Also don’t breath it or eat it.

FMJ / CMJ or jacketed bullets.

These are lead bullets, they are just jacketed in usually copper.   FMJ’s usually have lead exposed at the base, CMJ’s are complete metal jackets.

These are the basics, anything that’s not a pretty typical round nose basic bullet only gets more expensive.   Not saying you don’t want that but for target shooting/plinking/steel shooting, this works fine.

Consider also that you can buy FMJ, Hollow Points or good defensive bullets and make your own exotic loads for less than 25¢ each.   Some of these defensive rounds can cost upwards of $20 for as few as 20 in factory exotic defensive ammo.

Bullet Sources:

These are by no means the only sources but costs are typical.

Bullets are HEAVY to ship so be sure to factor in shipping costs or go with someone who includes it in the price.   USPS “If it fits it ships” must hate these guys.   2000 lead bullets weights in at like 30lbs?

Cast Lead:   We like the guys at SNSCasting.com  the 9mm round nose 115gr bullets above are $58.50 per 1000, but shipping is additional.  My cost for 2000 was 131.15 including shipping.  or  $131.15/2000 = 6.5¢ each.

FMJ’s: I’m told but have not ordered any yet is from Montana Gold.

Right now they show 9mm 115 RN for $298/4000 (delivered).   You need to buy them by the case (4000) to make this make sense.   $298/4000 = 7.4¢ each.

So if you’ve followed along your costs are looking something like:

That’s a less than half or about 1/2 of Wal-Mart pricing which is honestly about the cheapest place to buy factory ammo when in stock.   The savings only get better for other calibers like .380 .40 and .45, etc.

If you reload your own you aren’t subject to their rationing, at least our Wal-mart may or may not let you buy as much as you want depending on what they have in stock.

You also don’t have to worry about if it’s in stock, though you do have to worry about stock on powder/primers, etc.   Hopefully you’ll buy more stock than enough to do 1000 at a time.

So what’s it cost to get set up to save this kind of money?

Well the Cadillac for handgun loading is the Dillon Precision 650XL.  with a case feeder.  And all the little extras that you need:

- A Scale

- A Tumbler

- Media

- A Media Separator

- Calipers

- Bullet Puller

- Dies

- Case checker

- boxes/containers

- etc.

Some of these things are optional but they really make the process much much smoother.

This all rings in at approx. $1600.00

At that cost, it will take me 320 boxes at $5.00 savings per box, or 16,000 rounds for the reloader to pay for itself.   It’s all gravy after that though.

Again, there are other benefits:

- Tailored loads
- Flexibility, I can make what I want when I want provided I keep the parts in stock.
- No more driving around trying to find ammo.
- No more getting told by the Wal-Mart guy (4 box limit today).

The downsides…

Well you have to pull the lever yourself and it takes time.  Once you get rolling you can easily do 800 to 1000 rounds an hour with the 650.   I didn’t believe that at first but it’s true. 

Also reloading makes you want to shoot more.  After all it’s costing you less

It takes space, you need a good amount of work area to do it.   I have a 4×8 workbench that totally consumed with reloading stuff now.

And if for some reason factory ammo gets cheap, you stop reloading and simply start saving brass for when it’s not so cheap.

Other than that it’s really quite simple, economical and fun.

For the ride home we picked the scenic (read twisty) route where possible, avoiding the slab (highway).

The video below includes 15 minutes of footage along US Route 311 in Virginia headed towards West Virginia.

Footage shot with a ContourHD camera.

Yeah, I know the sound is out of sync (thanks iMovie).   But it gives you a good idea of why we do this (or maybe why some people don’t).  I don’t claim to be any good at this video editing thing.

Enjoy…