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This morning on his way to school, Michael hit a train.  Yep, you read that right.  Miraculously, he walked away.  Sore as hell, just a few scratches on his right hand, banged up his knee a bit, but other than that he’s OK.

Apparently, he was behind a school bus that turned right at the tracks.  The school bus blocked his view of the flashing lights, and the train was coming from the right.  When he cleared the school bus he saw the train, but it was too late.   Hit slammed on the brakes and ended up hitting the 4th car from the Engine (according to the conductor).

He’s very, very lucky.

From Escort vs. Train

Channel 12’s Coverage

Channel 9’s Coverage

Ky Post Coverage

So do you have a 1998-2000 Chrysler Cirrus or Dodge Stratus or Plymouth Breeze?

Does your AC/Heater Blower not work at all or maybe only on the highest setting?

If so you need one of these:

BlowerResistor

They cost about $21 from a local autoparts store, or $35 from the dealer, or $16 plus shipping from RockAuto.com

My blower quit about a week ago and the internet search began.  Lots of people pointed out what I needed but they said it was behind the glove box. 

It was not.

The real location is under the glove box.  On the passenger side, there is a black plastic cover that spans the entire floorboard area and covers the bottom of the glove box and blower housing.   You need to remove it.  To do so, there are two plastic clips.  The rivet kind, pull the inside while holding the outside and the pop right out.

Once you get the black cover out, it’s right there with two connectors.  Unplug those, two 8mm or 5/16th screws and out it comes.

I now have a four speed blower which helps when you need heat.

What a pain.

In June we purchased a nice/reasonable teenager car (1998 Escort ZX2).  Fairly low miles, good tires, with heat and AC for $1500.

Last week it was wrecked, or rather run into in a parking lot incident.   The damage wasn’t all that bad, but the suspension was broken.

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The person was covered by Progressive.  All in all the claim service has been decent.  The problem is they won’t use any used/remanufactured/aftermarket suspension parts.  So the cost of fixing the suspension pushed passed the value of the vehicle.

Hence, it’s "Totaled".

It’s still a decent car given it’s purpose.  Good gas mileage, working AC, etc.

So we’re taking the settlement, minus the buy back ($250) and we’re going to fix it.   Cost to fix: ~$1200-ish.  that does not include a new bumper, but does include beating out the dent in the fender so it’s not so bad.  Remember, teenage driver, to/from school and work is it’s primary purpose.

So, the Salvage process goes like this.

To get the settlement from Progressive I have to convert the Title to salvage.  Cost: $5.00.

I then have to bounce next door and buy a Salvage Inspection Certificate.  Cost: $53.00.

The car is now Salvage and as such is not licensed to be on the road.  (We can’t drive it).  It will be fixed tomorrow or Saturday, but we’re stuck.  We can’t drive it until our inspection date which generally runs 30 days out.   The body shop had an inspection certificate which they claim is transferable so they made the inspection appointment for us for Dec 22nd.  So we’re without wheels until then.

We now wait for the car to be repaired, and for Dec 22nd to roll around.   We are permitted to drive it to the inspection location (on the certificate).

Once it passes, we then have to go back to the Title agency and convert the title to rebuilt salvage.  (Another $6.00).   Then again bounce next door to the registrar and pay to have the plate put back on it (Another $4.50).

The little costs add up, but it’s more the time and running around that’s a big pain in the butt.

It seems to me that this whole process could be streamlined for instant rebuilds like ours.   I recognize that most of them don’t go this way, but the typical 30 day lag for the inspection for instant rebuilds is a big inconvenience. 

Another fine example of how efficient our governments are.

Just put front brakes on our 200 Ford Excursion for what I think is the 5th time in 140k miles.

That’s 28k per set.   I know it’s had all (4) wheels done twice, just the fronts twice, (now 3x).

That heavy behemoth just eats brakes.  Best part was, it went pretty smooth, I don’t think I cussed once.

We’ll see how the $77 NAPA Ceramic pads do.  We’ve had issues with non-Ford pads in the past…  The brakes just get bound up every now and then and will pull hard (generally to the left, but not always) under hard braking.   Usually falling back to Ford brakes took care of this.

We’ll see.

I’ve changed the oil in most of my own vehicles for most of my life.  That’s a fair number of vehicles, most of the Fords, with some Honda’s, a Chrysler, and a Nissan thrown in there.

Sometime around the early 90’s the Ford engineers got stupid.   This was first witnessed making oil changes on our 1993 Ford Econo-line van with a 302.   This is down right stupid.  You need to be double jointed at the elbow and wrist to get up in there to get that usually HOT oil filter out.   It’s the only vehicle that I’ve routinely let someone else do it because it’s just such a pain.  I mean it really sucked.

The Kawasaki ZX-11 that I had wasn’t a bundle of fun with it’s cartridge filter.  But at least it was doable.

Tonight I helped teach Michael how to change the oil in "his" car.  That 1998 Ford Escort ZX-2.  

You have got to be kidding me.   If there’s a reason these motors don’t last, it’s simple because nobody change the filters.  It’s ludicrous.  It’s up high, in the back, under the alternator.  You can’t get to it easily from underneath, and you can’t get to it from the top either, at least not and see what you’re trying to do.

Yep, this car is destined for Jiffy Lube…  What a pain in the @$%@#.   The Excursion is a piece of cake.  But this, this is so dumb, that I’ll make darn sure what ever new vehicle we buy is serviceable without any special tools or double jointed anything.

Ford if you haven’t fixed this on new vehicles, you can count us out as potential customers.

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In the ongoing effort to clean out the barn and all the old crap we’ve accumulated over the years, it was time.  Time for Jr. the 1948 Farmall Cub that came with the property when purchased it, to go.

In it’s day it was the ‘stuff’.  Was designed to help a man farm up-to 10 acres.  It was the pinnacle of small tractor utility.  Generating a whopping 9 horse power, one man could do it all with this.

When we purchased the property and had to mow 3 acres every week, sometimes twice a week I wasn’t sure how we’d get that done.  After some thought we required that this tractor with 48” belly mower had to come with said property.   Needless to say the former owners weren’t to keen on that idea but in the interest of selling their property they acquiesced.

Still it didn’t take long for me to figure out that even using this was taking way too long.   This baby, who was the best of breed in technology back in the 40’s and 50’s just wasn’t made for mowing a lawn. 

She was scary dangerous, heavy, almost under powered given the size of the single blade mower it was turning, had next to NO brakes but it was just plain fun.

It came with all of the implements:

the belly mower, a single plow, a set of discs, cultivators, a grader blade, and even a front end loader that hadn’t been mounted on it in 40 years.

Of those implements I had used the mower, though it was more of a bush-hog, to keep the motorcycle trails cleared.  I had broken ground in our garden with the plow and got it ready for planting with the discs.   I had attempted to plow the snow with the grader blade, but getting this old goat started in the dead of winter was a real treat and often not very easy.

In 2005 when I got my first street bike, I found that I’d rather be riding it than messing with the old tractor.  So it was parked and hasn’t been started since…  Well, I think I did start it once about 2 years ago just to see if I could.    As time had passed it became clear that I’d never take the time (or spend the money) to restore it, and while cleaning out the barn I had decided it was time for it to have a new home.  Hopefully with someone that would use it as it was intended.

I took some photos of everything and posted an add on www.farmallcub.com

48FarmallCub

In less than an hour I had people lining up to come and get it.  At which point I remembered that the former owners son had expressed an interest and I had promised him (and the former owner of the property) that they had the first rights to it if I ever sold it.   So, I needed to call them and check.  They were ecstatic and couldn’t wait to come and get it.  At the same time Bill from Harrison also wanted it, or what ever implements the former owners didn’t take. 

Needless to say, it was a happy ending for all.  Tractor has been reunited with it’s previous owner of 30+ years and Bill now has a loader and a set of cultivators.   I probably sold it all too cheaply, but I’m thoroughly happy with the transaction(s) and were everything ended up.

There’s just something cool about old tractors, and as much as I would have loved to keep this and play with it, I needed the room in my barn, and we need a tractor that’s more up-to-date. 

I look forward to seeing it in the parades in a few years when it’s running again and has a fresh coat of paint.

or How much horse bedding does it take to soak up 1 gallon of Castrol 10w-30?

Ugh… One of those days. I spent most of my day interviewing and eliminating candidates from a job we’re looking to fill. The nerve of some folks, man… It just goes to show that a good resume will get you in the door, and that you can’t judge a book (or person) by their resume alone. Felt like my whole day was a waste.

On the way home I decided I’d do something productive. The cage was a little overdue for an oil change and for the first time in a long time I had an evening free.

So I pull in the driveway, jump out, put the car up on ramps. It looks like it might rain soon. I run in the house, change clothes and get busy. Like any shade tree mechanic in 85 degree weather with 90% humidity I opt for my wife beater, shorts and flip flops.

This isn’t rocket science and I’ve changed the oil on this car ~20 plus times if not more. Should take 5-10 minutes tops.

I get the oil pail, of course it’s full, from the last time so I dump that into a 5gal pail. Crawl under and remove the drain plug. Simple as that.

Then we get to the oil filter. This particular car, a 1999 Chrysler Cirrus, has the oil filter right there where you can see it and reach it. It’s right there where you can’t really get a decent oil wrench on it. No sweat, been down this road before and I can usually muscle it off, but not this time. I really try not to over tighten them but with this car it always seems to bake them on or something. After busting knuckles trying all 3 of my wrenches and being unable to come up with the combination I’ve used in the past, I start the hunt for the big-ass channel locks that I have, but they are missing.

I finally give in and go with the ‘drive a screw driver through the filter’ plan. That rarely works unless you get it clean through the center, even then it’s a iffy situation. As in this case it only tore the filter open. But open enough to allow me to grab the damn thing with the smaller pair of channel locks that I could find and get it off.

Easy peasy…

I locate my spare filter, lube it up and install it. Just about then it starts to sprinkle, and thunder quite a bit. #@!$!, so I hop up, grab the gallon jug of 10w 30 and start pouring it in. Of course you can’t pour it in with the funnel I have so you dribble it in.

I’m about 3/4 way through the gallon, just about ready to stop and check the level and my right foot feels funny. Uhm, it’s wet and slimy feeling. I look down and realize that I never put the drain plug back in.

$#@%@$% The cardboard I was laying on is totally soaked and a river is forming that is running into my barn. @@#$#@! I don’t have any oil dry so I throw my rag down in the path hoping to slow it down. I hoof it back to the other barn hoping, no, praying, that we still have some shavings left. I grab the package and run back to the car. About a 1/2 a package of shavings and think I’ve got it covered. But I’m also covered in oil/shavings…

What a waste and mess!

Luckilly I had another gallon so I could at least finish the job.

Sorry no pictures, didn’t want to get the camera in the messy state I was in.

:/

Hope your day was better than mine.

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The ZX11 that’s for sale has had the wingrack removed.

The former information is here. Yep it’s still for sale, and I’m still working out the ‘carb/stall issue’ and I hope to have this fixed shortly.

Here are updated photos.

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Well tit was sold, then I rode it to make sure it was all ready to go..  It wasn’t right.  I eliminated a ton of vacuum issues tonight but it still has one small issue.

It *may* stall after getting off the throttle after being under load…  Grr…

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I put Zed my 1998 ZX11D up for sale in June. Other than advertise it on a few motorcycle forums I haven’t been very proactive about selling it.

In fact when I put it up for sale then, it wasn’t ready to ride. It was still in about 900 pieces in my barn.

Until today. The carb issues have been solved, and it’s runs better than it did for the last 10,000 miles that I rode it.

It’s put back together, and I took off that stupid looking (but effective) Givi windscreen. It now looks like you’d expect a ZX-11 to look:

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IMG 0102

The Givi Wingrack is still installed and I have e41 bags that can go with Zed for the right price. The Wingrack is removable, and that’s all that needs to happen to have a ’stock’ ZX11D. That, and put on the crappy stock back seat on it.

The facts:

- 1998 ZX-11 D model, with approx 25,000 miles.
- near new Michelin Pilot Roads front and rear.
- Bike has two powerlet power adapters installed, one in the dash one on the left side.

What’s wrong with it?
Mechanically? absolutely nothing. It’s ready to ride.

Esthetically?
This bike was droped on the left side by the prior (first) owner. He replaced the plastic, but the left can was still all little rashed. I never replaced it because it didn’t bother me. Both could stand to be polished.

I tipped it over on the right side, breaking the single screw tab that holds the right turn signal on. I attempted to epoxy that and it lasted about 2,000 miles. The right turn signal is current held in with hi-tech- black duct-tape. The right fix is beyond my ability to save this panel, but you can get a new upper for around $120 on ebay from time to time.

Other than that, it’s nearly a 10 year old bike that has been ridden. It’s not a garage or park and polish bike. It was ridden, alot, when it was my primary bike. It has dings and scratches that you’d expect on a 10 year old bike.

Price: $3000 Firm, we can negotiate on some of the extras; Givi screen, seat, bags, etc. Looking at ebay that seems fair to a little low for a 98. It will go on eBay soon.

To see what this bike looks like in touring trim, see the prior post.

Please contact: matt(at)dishers.com

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Two months ago we had a transmission issue with the Cirrus. I wrote about that here.

Well after about 2 months and approx 3000 more miles the baby cloud car decided the transmission no longer was acceptable and rejected it.

It started with a high pitch whine, then quickly deteriorated into gnashing, grinding and the inability to shift gears.

I limped it back to the Chrysler dealership on Tuesday. They started their diagnosis for which they waived the fee since we just had the transmission looked at.

That escalated into, “Uh, this is bad, the next step would be a $200 transmission service” Drop the pan, check the filter and see what’s in there.

OK.

That led to, uhm, it’s toast, and needs to be rebuilt, which was pretty much what I had figured based upon the audio clues given by the transmission a day earlier.

A remanufactured unit started at around $2300 with labor to install it, would put the ticket at $3200. That’s a little much for this car. (a 1999 with 120k miles).

A used unit is cheaper, $1300, but same labor and you don’t know what you’re going to get.

We negotiated and thought about it some more. $2350 later we have a rebuilt tranny with 12k mile warranty, as well as both axle’s replaced.

Kings Chrysler service department was very reasonable to deal with, although if you want to give me $2300 I’ll be very reasonable with you too.

Am I happy about this? no, but considering the car is otherwise mechanically sound, the body is in great shape, the interior good, and the AC still works, it’s paid for and I don’t think we could replace it for that.

Yippe!

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